Milano Market has opened in the space that formerly housed Mama Joy's. PHOTO: PAMELA Q. VU

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It's not Mama Joy's, the Morningside Heights legend that closed last spring. But Milano Market, which opened in its space on Feb. 1, deserves to be appreciated for what it is, not what it's not.

In addition to a wide array of creative and tasty sandwich combinations plus the old stand-bys, the deli counter is well-stocked with meats, cheeses, homemade soups and salads. There are some unusual fresh-baked breads delivered daily from nine Manhattan bakeries, a pastry counter stocked with whole cakes, pastries and cookies, a gourmet cheese counter and a fresh fruit stand, as well as grocery items that fall under both the "gourmet" and "every-day" categories. Prices are competitive for such quality - not as low as one might like (or alumni might remember), but then again, they aren't that low anywhere else, either. All in all, Milano Market shapes up as a welcome addition to Morningside Heights.